Bibliography

BOOK SOURCES:

‘Dracula’ by Bram Stoker (2014)
‘New Fashion Photography’ by Tim Blanks and Paul Sloman (2013)
‘Victorian and Edwardian Fashion: A Photographic Survey (Dover Fashion and Costumes) by Alison Gernsheim (2012) ‘Beauty and Cosmetics 1550 – 1950’ by Sarah Downing (2012)
‘Compacts and Cosmetics’ by Madeleine Marsh (2009)
‘Victorian Fashions: A Pictorial Archive, 965 Illustrations’ by Carol Belanger Grafton
‘Icons of Fashion, The 20th Century (Prestel’s Icons)’ by Gerda Buxbaum
‘Face Paint: The Story of Makeup’ by Lisa Eldridge

INTERNET SOURCES:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X72_1cOARX8 (youtube video)

http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/17176/1/vivienne-westwood-red-label-ss14 (photos from this site)

http://www.yourcoffeebreak.co.uk/fashion/26338737098/vivienne-westwood-red-label-ss14-collection/ http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen/slideshow/details - 38 (photos from this site also) 

http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/news/fashion/548907/aw15-fashion-trend-report-the-best-women-s-fashion-trends-for-autumn-winter-2015.html 

https://moncheribridals.com/wedding-hairstyles/29-stunning-vintage-wedding-hairstyles/ http://www.examiner.com/slideshow/best-dressed-at-the-oscars-2013-academy-awards-fashion https://robzappulla.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/american-horror-story5.jpg 

http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/americanhorrorstory/images/1/13/FionaGoode.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20130929151701&path-prefix=fr 

http://www.eonline.com/eol_images/Entire_Site/2013931/rs_560x415-131031102718-1024.Emma-Roberts-American-Horror-Story.jl.10
3113_copy.jpg

http://cdn.collider.com/wp-content/uploads/american-horror-story-coven-poster1.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/66/e4/ef/66e4ef558d3e274c121bb71c49e39c08.jpg

http://www.moviemistakes.com/images/mistakegrabs/8629.jpg

http://o.aolcdn.com/dims- global/dims3/GLOB/resize/600x400/http://www.blogcdn.com/slideshows/images/slides/287/955/3/S2879553/slug/l/friends-goof-1.jpg

http://www.moviemistakes.com/images/mistakegrabs/140068.jpg

http://www.delamaracademy.co.uk/blog/2009/06/an-introduction-to-continuity-for-the-make-up-artist

http://beautifulwithbrains.com/2010/08/06/beauty-in-the-victorian-age/ http://www.refinery29.com/victorian-beauty-secrets-book https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/ac/21/f6/ac21f6d51e18800a11a0b783ff14c797.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/7e/a4/a7/7ea4a7284fef80ba488fb152d53c4b82.jpg https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/5c/44/11/5c44114bf73dd1e9e4dcd4619ec0775d.jpg 

https://www.scripps.org/encyclopedia/graphics/images/en/1078.jpg http://www.healthline.com/health/burns - Third-Degree5 

http://www.fashion-era.com/images/HairHats/original_hathair_images/6hats1893-97.jpg 

http://www.onlinecostumeball.com/GermanBook/Hats/hats11.jpg 

http://www.whizzpast.com/victorian-hairstyles-a-short-history-in-photos/ 

http://www.fashion-era.com/romantic_era.htm http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2010/08/28/article-1307010-0AF44BBC000005DC-435_468x612.jpg 

http://40.media.tumblr.com/c7d7733e5c04660281035ed47dffd73b/tumblr_mvj3euyC7J1sjed9co7_1280.jpg 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frances_Dade

http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/headhuntershorrorhouse/images/b/bf/Lucy_Weston_(Universal_Classics).jpg/revision/latest?cb=2009100721530 0

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/93/db/d5/93dbd561e1a4593edd2d40a5a6eb58f3.jpg 

Project Evaluation

The project theme for this term was 'Gothic Horror'. I was really excited to be able to learn new techniques in Sue's technical lessons and master special effects. I have been wanting to learn how to master wounds, burns, cuts and sores for a long time and it was one of the main reasons I came to Solent university. However, I did struggle with this. I originally wanted to use special effects in my final character design but I really couldn't get the hang of the special effects and I felt as though I needed more practise before I would be confident enough to use them on a big project like this. I also didn't think that special effects would go with my chosen TV series, as 'American Horror Story: COVEN' witches aren't gory and they're almighty and powerful.

The most interesting part of this project for me was being able to create three characters and make them my own. It was really good to be able to start the project by creating a character from our chosen novel by following a rough guideline and making them appropriate for a TV series/program. I thought this introduced us well into the project, and I enjoyed creating my own 'Lucy Westenra' from Dracula. I found the continuity assessment difficult, because I felt the pressure of having to create a look in a limited amount of time, twice, exactly the same. I felt pleased with my final outcome though. For the second half of the project, it was fun to let loose and design personalities and looks for our characters from scratch.

Although I enjoyed the process of the entire project, I did run into a few problems. With the continuity designs/assessment, I chose a tricky makeup idea to recreate for the second half of the assessment. Getting the base, eye makeup and eyebrows were fine, but recreating the bloody mouth was more difficult than anticipated. I used a stippling sponge to apply fake blood around my models mouth, and evidently although it made great realistic looking splodges, they were hard to get right the second time around. As well as this, I didn't pay enough attention to the camera settings I had used during the first assessment, and ended up with very different looking photos in the second assessment. This was really frustrating because I think I got the hair and makeup nailed, but the photos let me down massively!

As well as this, I found shooting for the second half of the project quite difficult. For my 'Mrs Laderman' I was shooting on location with my model in the New Forest. I had planned it so that it was going to be a sunny day and that I'd get some great shots, however it rained lightly once and I had to think on the spot what to do with my model. Footwear choice was not great either. Next time I want to make sure I have my model prepared for all weather, and remember to bring an umbrella to protect the hair I spent hours styling!!
I also found the shoot for my 'Claudia' character was difficult too. I had spent a lot of money on a roll of wallpaper to stick to the black polystyrene boards in the photographic studios, however it was a heavy material and didn't want to stay up. We had a job making it stay and used two boxes of pins - even then it kept falling down! In the end I had a friend on our course come and hold the wallpaper taught so that it looked good in the images. I now know I have to practise shoot setups on location as well as in studios before shooting on the day!

If I were to do this project differently I would definitely use special effects on my characters. It's a real shame that I didn't feel like I had the confidence to do so, as I could have created some very morbid characters from another American Horror Story series! However I am really pleased with the outcome of the makeup and photographs I have produced and really enjoyed the process of planning, designing and shooting. I've also really enjoyed the research aspect of this project and have found that I'm really passionate about fashion now too. I can't wait to incorporate all of my new skills in the next project and over the summer in my own personal projects!

Final 'Claudia' images (Unedited)

Final 'Mrs Laderman' images (Unedited)

Vivienne Westwood's Red Label SS14 Show

This particular SS14 show from Vivienne Westwood inspired me in terms of gothic makeup. It was said the initial reaction from the audience at the show was 'the dance of death resurrected'. The models were painted with white bases and splurged with spontaneous shapes in black, red and blue paint. The uneven and unperfect makeup made a huge impact on the show, adding the vibe of gothic strangeness.

The show was opened by model Lily Cole in a very contemporary fashion that no one was expecting. She was in a dark red lighting setup, surrounded by smoke whilst eerie music played to support her. The show was described by someone as a scene of Excalibur, a romantic story of sorcery. It had a witchy and mythical feel to it, especially with the models painted in an Avant-guard fashion by artist Val Garland - they looked like walking art pieces. A truly inspiring and memorable show that has influenced me and inspired me to do a photoshoot very similar!

I attempted to recreate a similar look using my supra colour palette and an artists paintbrush. I used this brush rather than a makeup brush because I wanted the squared edges and roughness to the strokes - the makeup from the SS14 show was messy and far from perfect so I tried to do the same thing. I used the same sort of colours; a white base, black and a red.

Bibliography

http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/17176/1/vivienne-westwood-red-label-ss14 (photos from this site)

http://www.yourcoffeebreak.co.uk/fashion/26338737098/vivienne-westwood-red-label-ss14-collection/

Gothic horror in fashion:

After our lesson with Kat and learning about gothic horror in fashion, I did my own research and found a few interesting articles on a couple of fashion shows featuring gothic ideas. The makeup is fairly subtle, as the catwalk mainly focuses on the clothing rather than the makeup and hair styling. The theme of this particular fashion sure was Gothic Romance; this Fall Ready-to-wear from Alexander McQueen in 2015 demonstrates dark romantic colours and styling, along with similar hair styling to that of Edward Scissorhands!

Sarah Burton brought her collection to life to this show and described it as"the spirit of the rose," a flower that begins with a tight bud that opens into a lush bloom and then eventually collapses back onto itself in gorgeous decay. The photographer was to capture the rise and fall of the rose, the show followed in the same footsteps, going from structure to dissolution, just like nature. The show was described as very Victorian-esque due to the shapes of the clothing and the minimal makeup.

The fashion trends here are mostly black, creating the theme and feeling of a very gothic nature. The high necks, lace and ruffles add to this feeling as well as the choice of colour of the garments. In terms of styling, the hair is crimped, backcombed and very shapely. This could give the impression of a gothic horror character, maybe Frankenstein's bride? 
The makeup is pale and minimal. A gothic white face followed by a transparent but dark lip, to give the face dimension and not distract from the clothing by using opaque lip products. Bleached/fair eyebrows add length to the forehead, another gothic idea, and the eyes haven't got much product on at all.

The gothic venue

Bibliography:

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen/slideshow/details#38 (photos from this site also)

http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/news/fashion/548907/aw15-fashion-trend-report-the-best-women-s-fashion-trends-for-autumn-winter-2015.html

Design ideas for Claudia

The mood board I have created for Claudia features the style of wallpaper I want to use as a background, the smudged makeup effect and the feathers. I am keen to make my character look a bit 'off' and a bit strange; given her fictional upbringing I thought this would be appropriate.

I want the makeup to be a pink lip, smudged to one side, as if the character has been overthinking something, got worked up or upset/angry. Her makeup will be flaky smudges of black to show that she's not really aware of her appearance. I will be using a worn out black top and a feather neckpiece around her neck, because she is inspired by gothic fashion in the films she watches! I want to shoot in the studio, attaching wallpaper to the black boards in there. I want the lighting to be gloomy in the background but her face to be well lit so you can see all the makeup!

Hair design: Claudia

I am going for a simplistic hair style for my 'Claudia' character. My model has very dark, short hair that i want to style with a 'slicked back' hair style. I also want to add in some crimping on the crown of the head and brush it back to fit with the slicked back idea. I think this can represent the destruction and craziness in her life and the state she's in.
I will use a fine toothed comb and backcomb the frizzy crimped crown and then brush it into place and hairspray it. I want it to look neat but slightly dishevelled and uneven, and not your average hairstyle - as she is not your average girl!

Tools used:

• Hair straightener
• Hair crimper
• Fine comb
• Hairspray
• Bobby pins/grips

The backstory to my character 'Claudia':

My second character is Claudia. She is paranoid, mentally unstable, takes inspiration from gothic horror films and programs to put together her own outfits, and has an imaginary boyfriend. Her fashion sense is limited to black colours, as she's desperate to fit into a witchy world and earn her mothers respect. 

My character is the secret daughter of Fiona Goode and is hidden from civilisation. She has grown up into a young witch who is a social recluse – not that she has any choice. She has been kept in an annexe away from the coven by her mother, Fiona, who is embarrassed of her because her powers are weak. Without any powers to give herself a real life boyfriend, she uses her vivid imagination instead. 

She's almost a character who is in constant mourning, with smudged makeup and a sad expression permanently on her face. As she's trapped on her own in the depths of an unknown location in the coven, she has a lot of spare time. She trains her weak powers with great effort every day and eventually becomes a stronger witch. One day, her mother hears her causing havoc in her hideout as she breaks through her bedroom wall with her powers. Fiona, her mother, is furious. She attempts to kill her newly powerful daughter, striking her with her powers and causing her head to crack at the front. Claudia protects herself and her powers keep her strong, so she's left with the wound on her forehead but doesn't die. She can only see this as a good thing, embracing her gory wound and feeling more like a horror character from her favourite films even more. 

My Claudia design is going to feature a very uneven/unperfect black eye makeup look. The lips will be pale, almost deathly. I want to make the eyebrows roughed up, and want messy, uneven hair. In terms of styling, the model will be dressed in all black and she’ll have a black feather neck piece. I think I might spray the lower part of the white rose black, to symbolise her obsession with gothic, or equally I could distort it with blood to achieve the same effect.

I think the look will appeal to the target audience because it will match the confusion of there being an extra character in the series that no ones knows about! A character who has been rejected by her own mother won’t be looking much like a film star.

My chosen inspiring word: SAVE US

I chose ‘save us' because my character is innocent and untainted. She has not seen what the world is like outside her annexe, but has only lived in her imaginary fantasy world that is in her head. Her innocent and naivety is portrayed through anxious looks across her face and how she should be released from being imprisoned by her mother. 

The character would feature throughout the series, however for the final outcome I think she ought to be set up stiffly in her bedroom, looking slightly odd, wearing bizarre clothing and accessories, day dreaming about her fantasy life and unknowing to the real world, . I think I will use the studios to capture this particular image/scene, as I want the lighting to be really mysterious and dark.

In terms of styling, I have a broken black top with holes all through it (intentional!) and a neck piece made up of black feathers. I have taken inspiration for this from the idea that she likes to dress up as bizarre horror characters! I have bought some dark purple flower wallpaper to pin to the black reflector boards in the uni studios and will make it look like the bedroom she's been hidden in for years. I don't want the photos to necessarily look sad and like a prison, as she's unknowing that she's in a bad situation. She is fully content with her fantasy life within the walls of the annexe her mother has imprisoned her in. 

Practising 'Mrs Laderman'

MAKEUP

I wanted to create a dark yet soft and slightly sexual look for my character. The idea originally was to go very simplistic, with a dark smokey eye and dark berry red lip. When I practised this makeup look however, I didn't feel like it had the magic, WOW power that I wanted. I decided to stick with the original smokey eye but I tried a nude lip. I still wasn't feeling it.. So on a whim I decided to try these black sequins! I was going to stick with just black on their own but the contract between those and the rose gold sequins made my models eye pop so I put those on too.

Products used:

• Illamasqua skin primer in matte
• bareMinerals bareSkin foundation in 
• Illamasqua loose powder
• Kryolan concealer palette
• Revolution cream contour palette
• Revolutions palette - dusty brown 
• Illamasqua black eye shadow
• Forever makeup HD brow kit in ash brown 
• Benefit THEY'RE REAL mascara in black 
• Primark 'full look' lashes
• Primark sequin kit (black and rose gold)
• Kryolan lip palette in nude
• Revolution HD baked highlighter

Tools used:

• Zoeva buffing brush
• Zoeva concealer brush
• Zoeva mini buffing brush
• Zoeva powder brush
• Kryolan eyeshadow brush
• Mac crease blending brush
• Zoeva contour brush
• Kryolan lip brush
• Unknown (amazon brand) highlighting fan brush
• Tweezers

Practising 'Mrs Laderman'

HAIR STYLING

Inspiration images for my character

My character is a classy and beautiful lady. Knowing that my particular model, Ruby, had dark hair, I was keen to create a soft pin curl look and keep her looking elegant and glamorous. I want the hair to be a bit more messy than these three images however I want to keep the same sort of curl and parting.  I had a practise session with my model and tried to recreate a similar sort of look:

Practising the hairstyling for the character (before and after)

I achieved this look by using a 20mm barrelled curling wand and then leaving them to set in pins. I wanted to make sure the curls were big and full of volume, especially with a bit of lift at the top. I left the curls to cool in the pins and so left them whilst I practised the makeup. By the time I took the pins out I was left with the right hand picture as a result! I back combed nearer the roots and brushed out the curls to give them a softer look. I added some texture spray to the hair so that it stayed big and bouncy and then set the whole head with hairspray. Hope it goes this well on the day of the shoot!

Bibliography

https://moncheribridals.com/wedding-hairstyles/29-stunning-vintage-wedding-hairstyles/

http://www.examiner.com/slideshow/best-dressed-at-the-oscars-2013-academy-awards-fashion

Design ideas for Mrs Laderman

I have created a mood board to get inspired for my character. She is a witch in touch with nature, and the inspiring word I have chosen is 'woods' so I have decided to use warm spring colours and props that blend with the background. I am going to shooting on location; the props include a black dress and a brown fur coat. To the left is a design for the makeup, going along the lines of a vintage theme. I have trialled this on my model and was pleased with it! I'm not sure if I want to make it slightly more glam and 'out there' to suit my fictional characters personality.

In terms of photography ideas, I want to try and find a few branches that can create shadows on my models face to create interesting images. I'm glad to have chosen a model with dark hair because I want her to look mysterious - my model has particularly striking eyes so this will be a great feature in the final images - I hope the makeup makes them pop!!!

Hair chart: Mrs Laderman

For my Mrs Laderman hair design I wanted to go simplistic but effective. My character is inspired by vintage fashion and is a very well put together woman, so I thought soft curls using a large barrel tong and pinning up one side would work well for this character.

Tools used:

• Large barrel curling tong
• Hairspray
• Hair grips

The backstory to my character 'Mrs Laderman'

         For my 'Mrs Laderman' I want to create an attractive, seductive, young and youthful woman with striking eyes and a dark eeriness about her. I have decided to give my character a first name; Ruby. 

         Ruby Laderman is the friend/frenemy of Fiona Goode. She is a crafty witch who is in her forties but has recently been made immortal, much like her enemy Marie Laveau - however Ruby and Marie are friends and protect each other. Ruby is a witch who although is manipulative and powerful, looks out for her kind. She is vain like Fiona, however she has both witch powers as well as voodoo magic; and has enchanted herself to be her young self and dresses as a vintage glamour queen. Fiona Goode is very jealous of her! 

         Ruby Laderman is the auntie of Misty Day – a witch who can bring the dead back to life. They come from a family who grew  up in the woods and so this is where they are most comfortable. Although Mrs Laderman is now a glamorous and wealthy woman, she still finds sanctuary in the woods she grew up in and where she learnt all that she knows.

         My character is going to have a vintage hairstyle – in a down do to show that she’s free spirited. Her makeup is going to be classic vintage 50s style; a strong black liner with a matte lid. She will have red lips to show her seductive side, accompanied with a vintage black dress and heels with a brown fur coat.

         I think the look will appeal to audience demographics because the character has the same sort of personality traits as a few of the main characters in the series; Fiona Goode and Maddison Montgomery. The target audience for the series is for people aged between 18-49, but this series particularly focuses on a female audience because majority of the characters are female. The drama of the series is suited to females more than males, and so are the strong minded and powerful women.

My inspiring word: THE WOODS

I choose the woods because as soon as I imagined my character in them I was inspired. 

I had a look on pinterest and found some beautiful images of women in huge woody areas. I think I want to incoporate some sort of natural force that my character can inflict on the world, whether it’s fire/water/nature. I would work on this in post production but I have the perfect setting for my shoot. It is a cove with water in the centre surrounded by greenery and old winding trees.

I need to find a black embroidered dress for my character; preferably I want it to be long sleeve and long in length. If I think my character walking on water would work I think this kind of dress would look amazing!

Characters from 'COVEN' that inspire me

FIONA GOODE

What I like about the series is that the characters are all very different. The character that stands out to me this most is Fiona Goode. She is the reining supreme witch and is very vain and craves eternal youth. Throughout the series she challenges the younger witches and creates all kinds of havoc in the witch world. She has moments of extreme kindness, however she bears no guilt over murder. There's an underlying vulnerable side to Fiona, however it's her bitter personality and powerful persona that intrigues the audience throughout the series.

MADISON MONTGOMERY 

Definitely the most spoilt and bratty character of the series, Maddison Montgomery is a child movie star who's grown up getting everything she wants. She's a powerful witch but hasn't grasped the idea of controlling her powers; she's aware that she can physically hurt, and kill, people however it doesn't phase her and she thinks there aren't any consequences. Throughout the series she's rude and hurtful to the other witches, as well as secretive. She is an attractive witch who wears little clothing and is determined to get whatever she wants as long as it benefits her.

MISTY DAY

The kindest and most sensitive of the characters in Coven, Misty Day is a witch who can resurrect the dead. For most of the series she lives in the forest and brings back dead plants and animals, a firm believer of looking after the world she lives in. Being strong willed, she clashes with a few of the witches who are less sensitive, but stays a firm character and one of my favourites. Unfortunately Misty dies before the end of the series, her death effects the other witches in the house and it's seen as a tragedy to lose her even though she wasn't as strong as the others.

Bibliography

https://robzappulla.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/american-horror-story5.jpg

http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/americanhorrorstory/images/1/13/FionaGoode.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20130929151701&path-prefix=fr

http://www.eonline.com/eol_images/Entire_Site/2013931/rs_560x415-131031102718-1024.Emma-Roberts-American-Horror-Story.jl.103113_copy.jpg

My chosen horror series: COVEN

I have chosen ‘American Horror Story: Coven’ because I really enjoyed the darkness and unpredictability of the storyline.  I was especially intrigued by the character  of Fiona Goode and her daughter Cordelia, their friendship and most importantly, how powerful they both were. Not only do the characters in the series intrigue me, but the fashion, the makeup and the props used throughout the series are all fabulous. The witches in the series all wear black (naturally) and each character differs. They are all such different people that the possibilities of creating two new characters for the show is never ending..

The series takes place in New Orleans and is set in 2013. It features a few flashbacks to the 1830s, 1910s and 1970s. The main story of the series focuses on finding the Supreme Witch – a witch who embodies specific gifts and magic abilities known as the Seven Wonders. The young witches learn throughout the series how to control their powers and all become talented in various ways.

What makes this series fit the ‘gothic horror’ genre is not only the excessive amount of gore and darkness, but the styling, setting and makeup. The witches all dress very glamorously in black, many of them covered head to toe and wearing hats. Not the stereotype though! The makeup is modern day, every day style, and is never too complex. SFX are used throughout the series, whether someone has lost an arm, has died, or has had their eyes gauged out.

Audience demographics..

         The target audience for ‘Coven’ are mainly aged between 18-49. The series itself differs from the previous two in the way that it mainly only features women. There are only a few male characters and this could affect the amount of male viewers the program has overall. Studies have shown that the most popular viewer for this particular series are teenage girls/girls in their early twenties.

         The series is appealing to this age group of girls because it features several characters that are all very different. The four main young witches would typically fit into all different groups at school if they were to go there; Maddison Montgomery is a spoilt, rich, bratty child movie star and is expectant of everyone to do anything she commands. She is a typical American brat, with her long blonde hair and slender physique. Her opposite, ’Queenie’ is a large black girl with an attitude like steel. In several scenes throughout the series she has flashbacks of her past and you can tell this is what has moulded her into the vicious character she is. Zoe, is a very normal, very polite and kind character but with a fire to her. She is thoughtful and often the voice of reason in the coven. Finally, the last young witch is Nan, a kind hearted girl with downs syndrome who has the ability to read minds. Despite other house members being unpleasant to her she is thoughtful towards everyone and very cunning. These characters alone influence the viewers because every person could relate to at least one of the young witches in the house.

Bibliography:

http://cdn.collider.com/wp-content/uploads/american-horror-story-coven-poster1.jpg

'Gibson' Victorian hair video

I have uploaded this video on how to achieve a 'Gibson' hair style that was fashionable in Victorian times. I had a go at recreating this style and really enjoyed the process, it is very easy to achieve and something I think I'd like to use on the characters we are creating. I think it is suitable for my Lucy Westenra character and the continuity assessment because it's almost a little bit less- neat than the typical Victorian hairstyle and I think that would be appropriate for my devilish vampire character. 

Bibliography

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X72_1cOARX8